Windswept highlands, strong whiskey, haggis, bagpipes, tartan kilts, enchanting castles, and serene lochs—which may or may not hold mythical monsters—are what come to mind when one thinks of Scotland. It’s fair to say Scotland has a personality every bit as loud and proud as the people who live there.

The best capital cities embody a country’s character, and Edinburgh most definitely captures the essence of Scottish culture. It has the medieval castles, winding cobblestone streets, and taverns from a bygone age you’d expect. But it also mixes in an artsy, bohemian flavor thanks to its world-famous art festivals, Edinburgh International Festival and the Edinburgh Fringe, and a modest but spirited nightlife scene. Edinburgh is one of those cities that somehow feels both intimate and grand.

Edinburgh’s laidback, anything-goes—as long as it buys a drink—vibe makes it inclusive and welcoming to the LGBTQ+ community too, with a gay scene centered around its “Pink Triangle.” There, you'll find everything from rambunctious drag shows and feisty late-night clubs to gay-friendly boutique hotels and cafés.

So come take both the low road and the high road, as we peep under the kilt of Edinburgh to answer the age-old question: what’s underneath, and how does it measure up? And no, Scots don’t wear underwear beneath their tartan skirts.

Table of Contents

1. General Tips
2. Airport Transfer and Transportation
3. Gay Hotels in Edinburgh
4. Sightseeing & Activities in Edinburgh
5. Gay Tours in Edinburgh
6. Restaurants and Cafes
7. Edinburgh Gay Bars and Clubs
8. Edinburgh Gay Saunas & Cruising Bars
9. Gay Events in Edinburgh
10. Day Trips from Edinburgh

General Tips

Edinburgh is a city with personality no matter what time of year you visit. No one heads up north expecting sunny skies, but Edinburgh—like Scotland—doesn’t need good weather to look good. In fact, a gloomy sky only adds to its charm. As with most of Europe, spring and autumn bring milder temperatures than winter and fewer crowds than summer. Still, don’t forget to pack an umbrella.

The city truly comes alive in August during the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, when performers, artists, and queer travelers from all over the world descend upon it. Pride is also a fantastic time to visit, with Edinburgh’s own celebration usually held in June. Just make sure to book your accommodation well in advance.

The LGBTQ+ scene in Edinburgh may be smaller than in cities like London or Berlin, but it’s got plenty of spunk—so to speak. The “Pink Triangle” is where you’ll find most of the gay bars and clubs, clustered a few blocks near the top of Leith Walk. The city center is totally walkable, and the best areas to stay if you want to be close to the action are either the Old Town or New Town. The Royal Mile forms the backbone of the Old Town, running right through its center and connecting many of the major sights. It’s easily navigated via the “closes” that lead off it—narrow alleyways often named after notable locals.

And just to clear up a common bit of confusion: Scotland is its own country and not part of England, even though they share a landmass. It is, however, part of both the United Kingdom (alongside Wales and Northern Ireland) and Great Britain (which includes Scotland, Wales, and England). That said, Scottish independence is a fiery topic—probably best avoided in a bar during the wee hours. 

Airport Transfer and Transportation 

Getting to and around Edinburgh is super easy, even if it’s your first time in the city. The airport is conveniently located about 13 kilometers (8 miles) from the city center, and you’ve got a few solid options to get there. The Airlink 100 bus runs 24/7 and gets you into town in about 30 minutes for around £5. Prefer a more scenic route? The tram also connects the airport to the city center, with stops at Princes Street and St Andrew Square, and takes roughly 40 minutes. Taxis are always on hand and will set you back about £25–30, depending on traffic.

Once you’re in the city, walking is hands-down the best way to explore—most of the major sights are within easy reach. Need to venture a bit farther? Lothian Buses and the tram system are reliable, affordable, and run frequently. The tram’s especially easy to navigate with just one line running the length of the city. You can even pick up a day pass for unlimited travel starting at just £4.50.

Gay Hotels in Edinburgh

Luxury

The Witchery by the Castle – Often dubbed the UK’s most romantic hotel, The Witchery is Scottish luxury at its most theatrical. Literally steps from the gates of Edinburgh Castle, this opulent boutique hotel is gothic excellence—complete with winding stone staircases, velvet-draped canopy beds, rich tapestries, and deep, moody color palettes. Each of its uniquely styled suites is a decadent hideaway, featuring antique furnishings, roll-top baths, ornate wood paneling, and plush seating areas. The hotel’s candlelit restaurant serves fine Scottish cuisine or afternoon tea (depending on the time of day) in a baroque dining room with stained-glass windows and gilded ceilings. 

Mid-Range

Motel One Edinburgh-Royal – Located on Market Street, it’s just steps from Waverley Station, the Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle, and the Pink Triangle gayborhood. Motel One delivers the full Scottish experience, housed within two restored 16th- and 18th-century buildings that retain their original façades while featuring modern interiors with mid-century furnishings, botanical accents, and classic Scottish tartan details. Rooms are equipped with plush box-spring beds, flat-screen TVs, air conditioning, and sleek bathrooms. Guests can enjoy a 24-hour front desk, buffet breakfast, and access to the One Lounge—a cozy bar with a whisky-themed design and sheep sculptures (yes, seriously!).

Alva House – The city's only gay-owned, male-only guesthouse is homely, charming, inclusive, and quintessentially Scottish. Set within a classic Victorian townhouse, it features thoughtful touches like cast iron fireplaces, high ceilings, and period details that add character and warmth. Each room is individually decorated, with options ranging from snug singles to spacious superior rooms, all equipped with heating controls, double-glazed windows, and flat-screen TVs. Guests can enjoy a complimentary continental breakfast served in a relaxed communal kitchen, along with free Wi-Fi and access to a DVD library. The owners are incredibly friendly, adding a personal, welcoming touch that makes the stay feel even more special.

Parliament House Hotel – In the center but nicely tucked away on a cobblestone street at the foot of Calton Hill, this quaint feeling hotel is a short stroll from the gay scene around Leith Walk. Housed within three charming townhouses, the hotel blends period features—like a vintage caged lift and roaring fireplaces—with modern comforts. Rooms are individually styled with tartan accents, plush bedding, and amenities such as flat-screen TVs, minibars, and tea and coffee facilities. Some rooms boast views of Calton Hill or the city skyline. Guests can unwind in the snug lounge, complete with a drinks cabinet and open fire, or enjoy a hearty Scottish breakfast in the bright breakfast room. 

Budget

Kick Ass Greyfriars – Right up in the action of Edinburgh’s Old Town (not far from the Pink Triangle), this cheekily named, adults-only hostel indeed kicks ass. The shared dorms are clean, comfy, and kitted out with USB ports, private reading lights, and lockers. It’s a great place to stay to make friends – especially for backpackers – as they run nightly pub crawls, quiz nights, live music, and have a bar with a vintage VW van inside. With epic views of the castle and Greyfriars Kirkyard right outside, it’s the perfect launchpad for your Scottish adventures.

Sightseeing & Activities in Edinburgh

 Edinburgh Castle – Perched atop Castle Rock, a 700-million-year-old extinct volcano, Edinburgh Castle dominates the city skyline as a powerful symbol of Scotland’s storied past. With origins dating back to the Iron Age, it has served as a royal residence, military stronghold, and prison. Home to the Crown Jewels and the Stone of Destiny, it has witnessed births, coronations, and sieges that helped shape a nation. Explore this historic fortress, hear the boom of the One O’Clock Gun, uncover tales of turbulent battles, and take in sweeping views across the city. Book tour →

The Royal Mile – Stretching from Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace, the Royal Mile cuts through the heart of the Old Town like a spine of stone and story. This historic thoroughfare is lined with medieval tenements, shadowy closes, lively pubs, and offbeat shops brimming with charm. Step into St Giles’ Cathedral, descend into the eerie depths of Mary King’s Close, or catch the street performers animating the cobbles. Take a quick detour to Victoria Street for colorful facades and quirky cafés. You don’t need to walk 500 miles to fall for Edinburgh—just one mile and 107 yards, to be exact. Book tour →

The Real Mary King’s Close – Beneath the bustling Royal Mile lies a labyrinth of preserved 17th-century streets. Visit Real Mary King’s Close and you’ll be guided by cloaked storytellers, as you descend into shadowy alleyways for tales of plague, mystery, and murder about the people who once lived (and maybe never left) this eerie hidden world. Book tour →

Holyrood Palace – Located at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, Holyrood Palace is the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland. Visitors can explore the opulent State Apartments, the historic chambers of Mary, Queen of Scots, and the romantic ruins of Holyrood Abbey, all surrounded by beautiful gardens with an abbey outside. The palace hosts ceremonial events and is open to the public when not in use by the King. Book tickets →

Calton Hill – The competition for the best view of Edinburgh is fierce, but Calton Hill is a strong contender. Located right in the city center, it offers sweeping views in all directions, along with access to the City Observatory and the National Monument. The climb is a bit of a workout, but totally worth the sweat—especially at sunset.

Arthur’s Seat – The winner (or very close runner-up) for best view goes to this ancient volcano, which also happens to be the highest point in Holyrood Park. From the summit, you get a panoramic view of the entire city, making it a favorite for hikers, photographers, and picnic-goers. The walk to the top is manageable for most fitness levels and takes about 30–60 minutes, depending on your chosen trail. The name comes from the belief that it could be the site of the legendary city of Camelot.

Dean Village – Sometimes you need to step outside the city center to get a real feel for local life. In Edinburgh, that place is Dean Village. Tucked in a green valley along the Water of Leith, just twenty minutes from Princes Street, this storybook neighborhood is a peaceful retreat of 19th-century stone cottages, whimsical turrets, and ivy-covered facades. Once a bustling grain milling hub, its industrial past still lingers in old mill buildings and carved plaques. It feels miles away from the city—yet it’s still part of it. People do live here though (the lucky sods), so keep it respectful. Book tour →

National Museum of Scotland – Egyptian mummies and Viking treasures might not be the first things that come to mind when exploring Edinburgh, but the National Museum of Scotland has a huge collection of historical oddities that make it an essential addition to any sightseeing agenda. Found in the Old Town, entry is completely free! Be sure to check out Dolly the Sheep, the first cloned mammal from adult cells. Book tickets →

Camera Obscura & World of Illusions – Part museum, part funhouse, Camera Obscura makes a nice contrast with the more historical sites of the city. Just steps from the Castle, it’s packed with interactive exhibits, optical illusions, holograms, and mind-bending visual tricks that’ll give you a head rush. The star of the show is the Victorian-era Camera Obscura itself—a fascinating device that projects a live image of the city. Book tickets →

 Port of Leith Distillery – Scotland is known for its whiskey and you’d be remiss not to partake of some. Visit the UK's first vertical distillery in the vibrant Leith neighborhood along the river. Take a 60-minute guided tour to learn about whisky production, enjoy tastings (liberally), and visit the rooftop bar for more “tastings” and views over the river. Adjacent to the distillery is the Water of Leith Walkway, a serene 12-mile path that meanders through Edinburgh, connecting Balerno to Leith. Just watch your step after all that whiskey! Book tour →

Gay Tours in Edinburgh

Edinburgh LGBTQ+ History Walking Tour – Like every major city, Edinburgh’s LGBTQ+ history is rich with queer stories that often go untold. On this 3-hour walking tour through the heart of Edinburgh, you’ll learn about pioneering lesbian and trans doctors, revolutionary booksellers, 17th-century queer love stories, and a courageous gay Scot who challenged Stalin for LGBTQ+ rights in the 1930s—and more. Book tour →

Pride History Tours – The Real Mary King’s Close joins in the Pride celebrations each June with a special historical tour. Head beneath the Royal Mile to explore preserved 17th-century streets while learning about Scottish LGBTQ+ history from the mid-1500s to 1912. The stories are brought to life by costumed guides portraying notable queer figures from Scotland’s past, making for a unique and immersive way to connect with the country’s hidden history. Book tour →

Restaurants and Cafes

Kafe Kweer – Edinburgh’s LGBTQ+ community is here and kweer, so get over it. Or better yet be a part of it at this chic cafe that rocks the local queer community vibe. In addition to being a cultural space that hosts art exhibitions and community events in its basement, it offers great vegan-friendly food (especially the pasties) and a selection of hot and cold drinks—try the salted caramel hot chocolate. 

The Scottish Café & Restaurant – Located at the National Gallery, this museum café has no business being this good! As the name suggests, it serves up the best of local Scottish fare, including Cullen skink (a hearty smoked haddock, potato, and onion soup), Aberdeen butteries with haggis (rich pastries filled with spiced offal), and a tangy rhubarb trifle. Pair that with vibrant décor and sweeping views over Princes Street Gardens and the Scott Monument, and you’ve got a winning combination.

Eleanore– This intimate restaurant in Edinburgh's Leith Walk, is the brainchild of local chef Roberta Hall-McCarron and her husband Shaun. Their set menu evolves with the seasons, showcasing inventive dishes like cod au poivre with creamed spinach and the indulgent tirami-choux dessert. The ambiance is a blend of Scandinavian minimalism and warmth, featuring high-top dining and communal tables. 

The Scran and Scallie – You don’t get a more Scotty-ish name than that, and this gastropub in the Stockbridge neighborhood doesn’t disappoint with its rustic charm. Co-founded by Michelin-starred chefs Tom Kitchin and Dominic Jack, it has earned acclaim since opening in 2013 for its modern takes on traditional Scottish dishes, securing a Michelin Bib Gourmand for quality and value. The menu features hearty favorites like steak pie, fish & chips, and haggis, neeps & tatties — all crafted with seasonal, locally sourced ingredients.

The Bon Vivant – Masterfully blending continental charm with Scottish flair, this candlelit bistro offers a regularly changing menu spotlighting seasonal, local ingredients. The real joy, though, comes from the shared small plates — think haggis bonbons with chili jam or goat cheese mousse with cherry tomato salad. The cocktails are great too!

Tupiniquim – Tired of haggis? Head to Meadow Walk for a different kind of iconic institution — affectionately known as “Brazil-in-a-Box.” This beloved Edinburgh gem is actually a repurposed green police box on Lauriston Place serving gluten-free crepes made from a blend of rice, tapioca, maize, buckwheat, and potato flours. The menu features inventive options like the “Release the Chicken” crepe, with mango-marinated chicken, avocado, and mozzarella, alongside sweet treats such as the “Monkey Delight,” with banana, cinnamon, and pecans.

Mary’s Milk Bar – Another of Edinburgh’s culinary institutions is nestled in the historic Grassmarket. Mary’s Milk Bar is a charming gelateria where tradition meets innovation. Trained at Italy’s Carpigiani Gelato University, Mary creates fresh, imaginative flavors daily — from classic salted caramel to adventurous combinations like goat cheese with fig. The shop’s retro ambiance, complete with recycled milk bottle furnishings, offers a nostalgic nod to vintage milk bars.

Edinburgh Gay Bars and Clubs

CC Blooms – Named after Bette Midler’s character in Beaches, CC Blooms is Edinburgh’s oldest LGBTQ+ bar and club. The venue features a superb cocktail menu, an extensive selection of wines and champagnes, and a food menu focusing on traditional pub fare and sharing plates during the day. The downstairs LAB space hosts regular drag shows and cabaret nights, contributing to its reputation as a buzzing, unpretentious gay club over two levels.

The Street – Another beloved venue in the “Pink Triangle,” this bar features two floors, each with its own bar and outdoor heated smoking terrace. By day, patrons can enjoy coffee, cocktails, and a diverse food menu, while evenings transform the space with DJs, live music, and a bustling dance floor in the basement club. Don’t miss their signature “Pussy Bomb” cocktail.

Planet Bar – Edinburgh's longest-running gay bar is everything a gay bar should be, with great cheesy music from nightly (sometimes drag queen) DJs, cheap drinks, friendly staff, glitter balls, and color! They run regular events such as karaoke, bingo, retro nights, and drag on Thursdays and Sundays, with past appearances by RuPaul's Drag Race UK stars like The Vivienne and Baga Chipz. Planet Bar also handily owns Edinburgh’s sauna, Steamworks.

Regent Bar – Take a hearty Scottish ale house and gay it up a few notches and you have The Regent Bar. In Edinburgh's Abbeyhill area, the “straight-friendly” pub prides itself on its selection of real ales, including Deuchars IPA and rotating guest ales. Open daily from 4 p.m. to midnight, it's a perfect spot for those seeking a laid-back pub experience in Edinburgh. The Regent also hosts events like the monthly Bear Scots gathering.

Paradise Palms – A quirky gay-friendly venue near the university, Paradise Palms combines a vegetarian diner, record store, bar, and live music space in one. Known for its eclectic décor featuring neon lights, vintage records, and namesake tropical plants, the venue serves award-winning vegetarian soul food inspired by American road trips, and an imaginative cocktail menu that includes tropical-themed drinks like the Strawberry Buckfast Daiquiri and the Banana Bread Old Fashioned.

Edinburgh Gay Saunas & Cruising Bars

Steamworks Sauna Edinburgh – Edinburgh’s premier gay sauna is conveniently located in the city center and open 7 days a week. It has all the basics done well: a sauna, steam room, jacuzzi, private cabins, a cruising maze, slings, and a large lounge area with a café serving snacks and drinks. You’ll find a good mix of men here, including plenty of local Scottish talent. They also run themed nights like Naked and Under 30s Day.

Gay Events in Edinburgh

Pride Edinburgh – Scotland’s longest-running LGBTQ+ celebration since 1995, transforms the city into a kaleidoscope of color and inclusivity, set against the backdrop of Edinburgh's historic architecture. The Pride March typically begins at the Scottish Parliament, at the foot of the Royal Mile, and proceeds all the way to Bristo Square, home to the festival village. The village features community stalls and stages hosting renowned artists. Past line-ups have included acts like Atomic Kitten, Grammy-nominee Kelli-Leigh, and X Factor star Amelia Lily. Dates: 21 June, 2025.

Edinburgh Fringe Festival – It’s no exaggeration to say that the world’s largest arts festival transforms Edinburgh into a vibrant hub of creativity and expression. With 50,000 performances over 300 veneers spanning theater, comedy, music, dance, and more, Fringe offers an unparalleled platform for both emerging and established artists. Every year, a wealth of LGBTQ+ performers take the stage, and there’s even a Big Gay Afterparty to keep the celebration going. For a comprehensive list of LGBTQ+ shows and events, the Somewhere For Us guide provides detailed listings and insights. Heads up: the city really does fill up for this event—so book your tickets well in advance. Seriously, like a year ahead! Dates: 1 – 25 August, 2025.

LGBTQ+ History Month at the University of Edinburgh – Every February, the University of Edinburgh hosts a series of events to mark LGBTQ+ History Month. These include lectures, workshops, and cultural activities aimed at celebrating and educating about LGBTQ+ history and contributions. Dates: 1 – 28 February, 2025.

Day Trips from Edinburgh

Loch Ness, Glencoe & the Highlands – Is there anywhere more legendary in Scotland than Loch Ness? A day trip here is practically mandatory. Dive into the mystery of the elusive Nessie with an optional boat cruise or explore the storied ruins of Urquhart Castle. Along the way, take in the haunting beauty of Glencoe, steeped in tales of clan battles and cinematic fame. Journey across the vast Rannoch Moor and through the majestic Cairngorms National Park, capturing the rugged charm of the Highlands. Scenic stops in quaint villages like Pitlochry—and maybe a glimpse of the iconic Highland cows—complete the perfect day trip. Book tour →

Glasgow – Just a 45-minute scenic train ride from Edinburgh Waverley to Glasgow Queen Street (or easily reached via guided tour), Glasgow makes for an exciting and easy day trip. This vibrant, gritty, and soulful city is full of contrasts—where grand Victorian architecture meets bold street art. Visit the Gallery of Modern Art (GoMA), snap a photo of the iconic Duke of Wellington statue (often humorously topped with a traffic cone), and explore Glasgow Cathedral, a breathtaking example of 12th-century Gothic architecture. Stroll down Ashton Lane, a cobbled alley lined with quirky pubs and cozy eateries—and still be back in Edinburgh in time for dinner. Book tour →

St Andrews & the Fishing Villages of Fife – For a taste of authentic Scottish coastal charm, take a day trip to St Andrews and the fishing villages of Fife, just two hours from Edinburgh. St Andrews, the birthplace of golf, is home to medieval ruins, a world-renowned university, and sweeping sea views. Then head to the East Neuk of Fife, where postcard-worthy villages like Anstruther, Crail, and Pittenweem await—each offering colorful harbors, fresh seafood, and timeless seaside character. Book tour →

Loch Lomond, Stirling Castle & The Kelpies – This classic day trip perfectly captures the spirit of Scotland as a whole. Start at Loch Lomond, where serene waters meet dramatic hills—perfect for a scenic walk or a peaceful lakeside break. Next, visit Stirling Castle, perched high above the countryside and steeped in royal history, from William Wallace to Mary, Queen of Scots. End your journey at The Kelpies—two massive horse-head sculptures that celebrate both Scotland’s industrial heritage and its mythical folklore. Book tour →

Featured image by Peggychoucair from Pixabay

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